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10 Wildlife Photography Tips for the Perfect Shot
10 Wildlife Photography Tips for the Perfect Shot
by Keenan Hursh
Several months ago, I was driving through Yellowstone National Park just before sunrise. I had driven through Mammoth Hot Springs in the northern part of the park and came across several young elk jousting with each other. I pulled over, got out of my car, and quickly began to capture the action before it was too late.
The scene had a beautiful backdrop of mountains covered in frost and two young bulls were putting on an energetic display. Everything was working out perfectly and the images looked great on my camera’s small LCD screen, or so I thought…
It wasn’t until I got home later that evening and viewed the images on my computer that I realized these photos weren’t that great… The images had motion blur from camera shake and the movement of the elk themselves, leaving me with images far from the crisp and sharp ones I perceived.
The scene had a beautiful backdrop of mountains covered in frost and two young bulls were putting on an energetic display. Everything was working out perfectly and the images looked great on my camera’s small LCD screen, or so I thought…
It wasn’t until I got home later that evening and viewed the images on my computer that I realized these photos weren’t that great… The images had motion blur from camera shake and the movement of the elk themselves, leaving me with images far from the crisp and sharp ones I perceived.
I made several mistakes while shooting that morning. I should have slowed down a bit and evaluated the scene before I started firing my shutter. I should have taken the time to set up my tripod. I should have chosen a faster shutter speed and compensated more with my ISO and aperture. In short, I should have done a lot of things differently.
Mistakes like these are very common in wildlife photography, especially if you aren’t practicing on a regular basis. I’m writing this article to provide some knowledge and insights that will hopefully help you the next time you go out.
Here are 10 tips and tricks I’ve learned over the years that have improved my skills in wildlife photography.
Mistakes like these are very common in wildlife photography, especially if you aren’t practicing on a regular basis. I’m writing this article to provide some knowledge and insights that will hopefully help you the next time you go out.
Here are 10 tips and tricks I’ve learned over the years that have improved my skills in wildlife photography.
1. Make a Plan
If you find yourself wandering around a random location waiting for something to walk out of the woods, you’re doing it wrong. You should always have a plan for the day and the more comprehensive the better.
You should research the area you will be exploring and figure out where the wildlife hot spots are. Know how to navigate through this area and have backup locations planned. Always check the weather forecast before going out as unexpected weather can change your entire day.
You should also research any specific animals you want to photograph. Learn more about their behavior to increase your odds of seeing them and getting photos. Articles and publications are great sources of information but if you have the time, it never hurts to simply observe the animal you eventually want to photograph. Study your subjects and the places they call home.
If you find yourself wandering around a random location waiting for something to walk out of the woods, you’re doing it wrong. You should always have a plan for the day and the more comprehensive the better.
You should research the area you will be exploring and figure out where the wildlife hot spots are. Know how to navigate through this area and have backup locations planned. Always check the weather forecast before going out as unexpected weather can change your entire day.
You should also research any specific animals you want to photograph. Learn more about their behavior to increase your odds of seeing them and getting photos. Articles and publications are great sources of information but if you have the time, it never hurts to simply observe the animal you eventually want to photograph. Study your subjects and the places they call home.
2. Have the Right Tools for the Job and Know How to Use Them
Now that you’ve done some research and come up with a plan, you’ll need to make sure you have the right tools to get the job done.
Let’s start with lenses. Yes, you can get some nice wildlife photos with shorter focal lengths but at the end of the day being able to zoom in and get up close to your subject is a game changer. Ideally, you will want a zoom or telephoto lens that can go over 200mm. And higher-end lenses with nicer glass and built-in stabilization will give you even more bang for your buck.
Make sure you’re familiar with your lenses before going out. Know how to adjust focus and stabilization settings and know how to hold or mount them to reduce shaking.
The camera body you’re using is equally as important as your lens. Having a camera with a larger and higher resolution sensor makes a huge difference. Not only will you get higher-quality images with more pixels and sharpness, but you can also crop into an image without losing too much detail.
Many modern cameras have incredibly powerful autofocus capabilities with upwards of 1,000 focus points and AI-assisted image recognition that can track eyes and faces. These features are incredibly powerful and make it even easier to capture great wildlife shots.
Beyond your camera and lens, you should also always have a tripod or at the very least a monopod as well as a quality and durable camera bag and the usual arsenal of accessories. You want to set yourself up for success and have some quality gear that you know in and out!
Now that you’ve done some research and come up with a plan, you’ll need to make sure you have the right tools to get the job done.
Let’s start with lenses. Yes, you can get some nice wildlife photos with shorter focal lengths but at the end of the day being able to zoom in and get up close to your subject is a game changer. Ideally, you will want a zoom or telephoto lens that can go over 200mm. And higher-end lenses with nicer glass and built-in stabilization will give you even more bang for your buck.
Make sure you’re familiar with your lenses before going out. Know how to adjust focus and stabilization settings and know how to hold or mount them to reduce shaking.
The camera body you’re using is equally as important as your lens. Having a camera with a larger and higher resolution sensor makes a huge difference. Not only will you get higher-quality images with more pixels and sharpness, but you can also crop into an image without losing too much detail.
Many modern cameras have incredibly powerful autofocus capabilities with upwards of 1,000 focus points and AI-assisted image recognition that can track eyes and faces. These features are incredibly powerful and make it even easier to capture great wildlife shots.
Beyond your camera and lens, you should also always have a tripod or at the very least a monopod as well as a quality and durable camera bag and the usual arsenal of accessories. You want to set yourself up for success and have some quality gear that you know in and out!
3. Master Your Camera Settings
Many of us have heard of the exposure triangle, the balancing act between the three settings on your camera that control exposure. These, of course, are Shutter Speed, ISO, and Aperture. Learning how to navigate between and balance these three controls is essential in all styles of photography but even more so when shooting wildlife.
Many of us have heard of the exposure triangle, the balancing act between the three settings on your camera that control exposure. These, of course, are Shutter Speed, ISO, and Aperture. Learning how to navigate between and balance these three controls is essential in all styles of photography but even more so when shooting wildlife.
Shutter Speed
Probably the most important corner of the triangle, when it comes to wildlife photography, is your shutter speed. This determines how long your sensor is exposed to light. If you set it too slow, you will most likely get motion blur either from your subject or camera shake. If you set it too fast, your image might be too dark or have too much noise. Finding the sweet spot is crucial.
In general, a faster shutter speed is better when shooting wildlife because animals often move quickly and unexpectedly. If you’re using any sort of zoom lens, let’s say over 200mm, I wouldn’t go below 1/125th of a second unless you absolutely must due to reduced light. A good rule of thumb is to put a 1 over your current focal length, so if you’re shooting 400mm set your shutter speed to 1/400th of a second.
You can also shoot on shutter priority to keep things simple and not worry about the other two corners of the triangle.
Probably the most important corner of the triangle, when it comes to wildlife photography, is your shutter speed. This determines how long your sensor is exposed to light. If you set it too slow, you will most likely get motion blur either from your subject or camera shake. If you set it too fast, your image might be too dark or have too much noise. Finding the sweet spot is crucial.
In general, a faster shutter speed is better when shooting wildlife because animals often move quickly and unexpectedly. If you’re using any sort of zoom lens, let’s say over 200mm, I wouldn’t go below 1/125th of a second unless you absolutely must due to reduced light. A good rule of thumb is to put a 1 over your current focal length, so if you’re shooting 400mm set your shutter speed to 1/400th of a second.
You can also shoot on shutter priority to keep things simple and not worry about the other two corners of the triangle.
Aperture
The next stop on the triangle is aperture. This setting controls the size or diameter of the physical opening that is allowing light into your sensor. A low aperture, f/1.8 for example, means your lens is wide open allowing a lot of light to enter and decreasing your depth of field. A high aperture, f/22 for example, equates to your lens barely being open letting less light in and creating a much greater depth of field.
When it comes to wildlife, photographers often use very low apertures. This accomplishes multiple things. A low aperture will isolate your subject from the blurred background with that low depth of field allowing the subject to pop. A low aperture also lets more light into your image, and with a zoom or telephoto lens and fast shutter speeds you may very well need the extra light. If you’d like to mostly focus on aperture, you can always put your camera in aperture priority mode.
The next stop on the triangle is aperture. This setting controls the size or diameter of the physical opening that is allowing light into your sensor. A low aperture, f/1.8 for example, means your lens is wide open allowing a lot of light to enter and decreasing your depth of field. A high aperture, f/22 for example, equates to your lens barely being open letting less light in and creating a much greater depth of field.
When it comes to wildlife, photographers often use very low apertures. This accomplishes multiple things. A low aperture will isolate your subject from the blurred background with that low depth of field allowing the subject to pop. A low aperture also lets more light into your image, and with a zoom or telephoto lens and fast shutter speeds you may very well need the extra light. If you’d like to mostly focus on aperture, you can always put your camera in aperture priority mode.
ISO
Finally, we have arrived at ISO. This is quite simply the sensitivity of your camera to light. ISO has its origins in film photography. Back in the good old days, you had to use a variety of film rolls to control the sensitivity of your camera to light.
These days this is a digital process built into your camera. It may seem like magic but don’t go overboard because as you increase ISO, you’re adding information and noise into your images.
With wildlife photography, ISO can be a very useful tool to compensate for a lack of natural light and very fast shutter speeds. If you’re shooting a bird in a shaded area, you will probably have to bump up your ISO.
Luckily, modern cameras, especially mirrorless cameras, can comfortably go to very high ISO settings without too much noise being added to your image. Some cameras can go all the way up to or over 200,000 and 400,000 ISO which blows my mind. I always recommend keeping your ISO as low as possible but if you have a relatively new camera and you need to bump it up a bit, you’ll probably be fine.
It may take quite a bit of practice to learn the correct exposure settings for your camera and lens but put the time in now so that you’re prepared next time you’re out on a shoot.
Finally, we have arrived at ISO. This is quite simply the sensitivity of your camera to light. ISO has its origins in film photography. Back in the good old days, you had to use a variety of film rolls to control the sensitivity of your camera to light.
These days this is a digital process built into your camera. It may seem like magic but don’t go overboard because as you increase ISO, you’re adding information and noise into your images.
With wildlife photography, ISO can be a very useful tool to compensate for a lack of natural light and very fast shutter speeds. If you’re shooting a bird in a shaded area, you will probably have to bump up your ISO.
Luckily, modern cameras, especially mirrorless cameras, can comfortably go to very high ISO settings without too much noise being added to your image. Some cameras can go all the way up to or over 200,000 and 400,000 ISO which blows my mind. I always recommend keeping your ISO as low as possible but if you have a relatively new camera and you need to bump it up a bit, you’ll probably be fine.
It may take quite a bit of practice to learn the correct exposure settings for your camera and lens but put the time in now so that you’re prepared next time you’re out on a shoot.
4. Reduce Blur and Shake
A very common problem when shooting wildlife that’s either small or far away is motion blur and camera shake. Lots of modern cameras and lenses have built-in stabilizers which help a ton but can’t always solve this problem.
If you’re shooting a fast-moving animal, like a bird flying, with a 600mm lens it can be very difficult to get a crisp image. Mastering your exposure settings and shutter speed will help alleviate this but using the right tools and techniques will give you even better odds of getting a razor-sharp image.
I always bring a tripod with me or at the very least a monopod so that I have something to keep my camera stable. Tripods help prevent tiny movements and vibrations from shaking your camera. When you’re shooting with a large lens and your subject is far away tiny movements are amplified and can ruin a photo.
In addition to a tripod, a remote shutter is never a bad idea as this will prevent movements caused by your finger pushing the shutter button.
If you’re shooting without a tripod, it’s in your best interest to learn proper camera holding techniques that reduce vibrations and movement. Resting your elbow on your knee or finding things in the surrounding environment like rocks or tree branches to set your camera on are common techniques. controlling and steadying your breath can help as well.
A very common problem when shooting wildlife that’s either small or far away is motion blur and camera shake. Lots of modern cameras and lenses have built-in stabilizers which help a ton but can’t always solve this problem.
If you’re shooting a fast-moving animal, like a bird flying, with a 600mm lens it can be very difficult to get a crisp image. Mastering your exposure settings and shutter speed will help alleviate this but using the right tools and techniques will give you even better odds of getting a razor-sharp image.
I always bring a tripod with me or at the very least a monopod so that I have something to keep my camera stable. Tripods help prevent tiny movements and vibrations from shaking your camera. When you’re shooting with a large lens and your subject is far away tiny movements are amplified and can ruin a photo.
In addition to a tripod, a remote shutter is never a bad idea as this will prevent movements caused by your finger pushing the shutter button.
If you’re shooting without a tripod, it’s in your best interest to learn proper camera holding techniques that reduce vibrations and movement. Resting your elbow on your knee or finding things in the surrounding environment like rocks or tree branches to set your camera on are common techniques. controlling and steadying your breath can help as well.
5. Shoot at the Right Time
Many of us have heard the term Golden Hour: This magical time of day when everything is possible, and you’re guaranteed to take perfect pictures. Right?
In reality, this refers to two periods of the day when the light is softer, has a nice glow, and is less harsh or direct. The golden hour occurs shortly after sunrise and shortly before sunset. The light from the sun is more likely to be diffused by the atmosphere and clouds reducing stark contrasting highlights and shadows and creating much more pleasant consistent lighting both on the landscape and your wildlife subjects.
In addition, these periods are often when wild animals are most active throughout the day, increasing your chances of getting good photographs. When it comes to the golden hour and wildlife photography it’s a win-win situation!
Many of us have heard the term Golden Hour: This magical time of day when everything is possible, and you’re guaranteed to take perfect pictures. Right?
In reality, this refers to two periods of the day when the light is softer, has a nice glow, and is less harsh or direct. The golden hour occurs shortly after sunrise and shortly before sunset. The light from the sun is more likely to be diffused by the atmosphere and clouds reducing stark contrasting highlights and shadows and creating much more pleasant consistent lighting both on the landscape and your wildlife subjects.
In addition, these periods are often when wild animals are most active throughout the day, increasing your chances of getting good photographs. When it comes to the golden hour and wildlife photography it’s a win-win situation!
6. Patience is Key
Patience, both with yourself and with your subject, is a key element to getting great wildlife shots. You don’t want to rush yourself when getting set up as you might make some mistakes or overlook something, as I did that morning in Yellowstone.
Take your time and be methodical when you’re choosing your location, setting up your tripod, getting your camera settings dialed, and choosing the composition of your shot. I often have a checklist I go through before I start taking photos. Nothing too complex, but enough to cover the basics.
You also must be patient with your wildlife subject. Some of the best wildlife shots I’ve captured are when I get set up and then wait for the animal to strike an interesting posture or walk into a more pleasing composition. Sometimes you may need to quickly capture some fast-paced action but if you slow down and are methodical in your practice you can get some very rewarding results.
Patience, both with yourself and with your subject, is a key element to getting great wildlife shots. You don’t want to rush yourself when getting set up as you might make some mistakes or overlook something, as I did that morning in Yellowstone.
Take your time and be methodical when you’re choosing your location, setting up your tripod, getting your camera settings dialed, and choosing the composition of your shot. I often have a checklist I go through before I start taking photos. Nothing too complex, but enough to cover the basics.
You also must be patient with your wildlife subject. Some of the best wildlife shots I’ve captured are when I get set up and then wait for the animal to strike an interesting posture or walk into a more pleasing composition. Sometimes you may need to quickly capture some fast-paced action but if you slow down and are methodical in your practice you can get some very rewarding results.
7. Respect and Observe Your Subject
Not only should you be patient when photographing animals, but it’s also incredibly important to respect and observe your subjects. When I shoot wildlife, I constantly remind myself that I am a visitor and observer in their home, and I never overstay my welcome.
You should never get too close to wildlife, even if stepping 20 feet closer would get the perfect shot. Keeping your distance will not only ensure your safety but will most likely produce better photos as the animal is comfortable and not feeling threatened or concerned by your presence.
Especially with animals that can be territorial, predatory, or dangerous I always keep a very safe distance and monitor their behavior. If they seem bothered by my presence at all I will usually slowly back away and may even leave all together. I’d rather go home with fewer pictures than in an ambulance.
Not only should you be patient when photographing animals, but it’s also incredibly important to respect and observe your subjects. When I shoot wildlife, I constantly remind myself that I am a visitor and observer in their home, and I never overstay my welcome.
You should never get too close to wildlife, even if stepping 20 feet closer would get the perfect shot. Keeping your distance will not only ensure your safety but will most likely produce better photos as the animal is comfortable and not feeling threatened or concerned by your presence.
Especially with animals that can be territorial, predatory, or dangerous I always keep a very safe distance and monitor their behavior. If they seem bothered by my presence at all I will usually slowly back away and may even leave all together. I’d rather go home with fewer pictures than in an ambulance.
8. Composition
Chances are your subject isn’t taking up your entire screen. Even if you’re shooting with a 600mm plus lens the animal you’re capturing might not be the only thing observable. This may seem like a problem, but you can use this to your advantage. By choosing an intriguing composition and placing the subject in an interesting location relative to other elements of your scene you can often create a more interesting image than just an isolated subject.
You can also choose to capture multiple subjects in one shot. Watching animals interact with each other and their environments can lead to great photographs. And if you’re not sure where to place your subject there’s always the good old rule of thirds.
Chances are your subject isn’t taking up your entire screen. Even if you’re shooting with a 600mm plus lens the animal you’re capturing might not be the only thing observable. This may seem like a problem, but you can use this to your advantage. By choosing an intriguing composition and placing the subject in an interesting location relative to other elements of your scene you can often create a more interesting image than just an isolated subject.
You can also choose to capture multiple subjects in one shot. Watching animals interact with each other and their environments can lead to great photographs. And if you’re not sure where to place your subject there’s always the good old rule of thirds.
9. Shoot at Eye Level
In addition to putting your subject in the right place on the screen, you can also put yourself in the right place relative to the subject. It’s very common for wildlife photos to feel kind of removed and distant. Like you’re not really there.
One way to overcome this is to bring your camera down so that it’s level with or even below your subject’s eyes. This helps place you in the environment and more or less into the perspective of your subject. You’re seeing the world through their eyes and creating an image that’s more immersive and intimate.
You can even lie down on your stomach and show parts of the ground between you and your subject creating a nice sense of depth. This technique is especially useful with small animals.
In addition to putting your subject in the right place on the screen, you can also put yourself in the right place relative to the subject. It’s very common for wildlife photos to feel kind of removed and distant. Like you’re not really there.
One way to overcome this is to bring your camera down so that it’s level with or even below your subject’s eyes. This helps place you in the environment and more or less into the perspective of your subject. You’re seeing the world through their eyes and creating an image that’s more immersive and intimate.
You can even lie down on your stomach and show parts of the ground between you and your subject creating a nice sense of depth. This technique is especially useful with small animals.
10. You Can Crop if You Need To
And last but not least, don’t be afraid to crop your images. This is definitely a controversial topic, and a lot of “purists” will say they never crop their images no matter what, that they will just use a longer lens, etc. While this can produce sharper images with higher resolution it isn’t necessarily the best option for everyone.
First of all, lenses of this magnitude can cost tens of thousands of dollars and if you aren’t shooting wildlife professionally, or all the time it might not make sense for you to get an 800mm or 1200mm prime lens. And with modern sensors, often sporting more than 30 megapixels, on higher-end camera bodies cropping isn’t nearly as big of a deal as it used to be. You can afford to digitally zoom in a bit and still produce a high-quality photo.
Well, these are ten tips and tricks I’ve found to be incredibly helpful when it comes to wildlife photography. I hope you’ve learned something or at least received a helpful reminder. Best of luck on your next wildlife photography adventure and, above all else, have fun!
And last but not least, don’t be afraid to crop your images. This is definitely a controversial topic, and a lot of “purists” will say they never crop their images no matter what, that they will just use a longer lens, etc. While this can produce sharper images with higher resolution it isn’t necessarily the best option for everyone.
First of all, lenses of this magnitude can cost tens of thousands of dollars and if you aren’t shooting wildlife professionally, or all the time it might not make sense for you to get an 800mm or 1200mm prime lens. And with modern sensors, often sporting more than 30 megapixels, on higher-end camera bodies cropping isn’t nearly as big of a deal as it used to be. You can afford to digitally zoom in a bit and still produce a high-quality photo.
Well, these are ten tips and tricks I’ve found to be incredibly helpful when it comes to wildlife photography. I hope you’ve learned something or at least received a helpful reminder. Best of luck on your next wildlife photography adventure and, above all else, have fun!
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AUTHOR
AUTHOR
Keenan Hursh is a Photographer, visual designer, and creative story teller based out of Bozeman, Montana. He draws inspiration from his frequent excursions into the natural world and always brings his camera along to capture whatever adventures he finds himself in. Keenan is passionate about documenting and sharing fleeting moments from the natural world and focuses primarily on wildlife, landscape, and adventure photography.
When it comes to gear, he primarily shoots digital with his Canon EOS R5 and EOS 6D mark ii but also has several 35mm film cameras that get out every now and then.
At a very young age, Keenan started bringing a camera along on his excursions and immediately fell in love with the art of photography. He started out with his parent’s cheap point and shoot and has continuously improved his craft and gear refining his shooting style and producing more compelling and intriguing images.
Growing up in the foothills of Boulder, Colorado, surrounded by mountains and wilderness, Keenan has developed a deep passion for many outdoor activities. When he’s not out on a shoot or using his camera, Keenan enjoys skiing, climbing, hiking, backpacking, cycling, whitewater rafting, and paragliding. If he’s outside, away from the distractions of society and civilization, he’s in his happy place.
Keenan studied Emergent Digital Practices at the University of Denver while minoring in Marketing and Entrepreneurship. Since earning his degree in 2019 he was worked with a wide range of clients, companies, and organizations throughout his career. Apart from photography he specializes in content creation, writing, brand development, and graphic design.
You can view Keenan’s portfolio on his website at www.keenanhurshphoto.com
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All Images & Content are property of Backcountry Journeys Photography Tours, Workshops & Safaris LLC - Copyright 2024
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